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mantua 1740-50 WIP front by Janes-Wardrobe mantua 1740-50 WIP front by Janes-Wardrobe
Firstly this photo is a bit dark,
secondly ignore all the rubbish in the background
thirdly this is not finished
fourthly there is no petticoat or paniers and the stays underneath are unfinished

OK so those are my excuses - I'm just so excited by this piece so far I had to post it.

And PLEASE ignore the nasty duvet cover on the floor - it's wet outside and I didn't want to risk any dirt on the dress.
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:icondepresedescapist:
depresedescapist Featured By Owner Feb 18, 2008  Hobbyist Digital Artist
It's BEAUTIFUL! And MY GOD do I LOOOOOOVE that fabric!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Feb 19, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :hug: Did you see the finished dress? [link] I was so lucky with that fabric - it's 100% silk, it was on sale and I bought it about three years ago not having a clue what I was going to use it for. There was five metres and I really should have had six for the dress and petticoat but I did the back of the petticoat in linen. ;)
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:icondepresedescapist:
depresedescapist Featured By Owner Feb 19, 2008  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Yup! I saw all of the WIP's and then picked a random one upon which to comment for some reason. Lovely work!

By the way, one question (following a huuuuge debate on the corsetmakers forum on LJ): do you use grommets or eyelets? (Eyelet = eyelet without washer, OR eyelet with washer, and grommet = much larger flange than an eyelet plus a washer, as I am told the naming is quite different in the UK.)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Feb 20, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Well, I call what I use eyelets, but according to your definitions I use grommets. ;)

Eyelets without a washer would be totally useless, they'd pull free the first time the corset was tight laced. I'm very pleased with what I use and they're called 'eyelets with washers' on the pack but they're a German product I think that 'eyelets with washers' are probably the same product as 'grommets'. The washer part is cup shaped to take the part of the 'grommet' that bends over.

Hope this helps with the debate...
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:icondepresedescapist:
depresedescapist Featured By Owner Feb 20, 2008  Hobbyist Digital Artist
There are two types, however. There are eyelets with washers, but grommets are much wider for the same hole diammeter. For a 3/16" hole diammeter, an eyelet with washer would be approximately 1/4" wide, but a grommet would be 5/16". I'm told that people use Prym ones, called Osen in Germany. The different naming is very interesting. My argument was that eyelets (by American definition) are insufficient for corsets as they are not strong enough to withstand the pressure and would pull out because their flang e is thin and does not grip the fabric as well as a grommet does, as this is what dozens and dozens of corsetieres have so far said.

Good luck with all over your endeavors! I can't wait to see more work.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Feb 21, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
By the definition you have given eyelets are definately not suitable for tightlacing corsetry. For fashion corset style tops thay would be OK but certainly not for any shape changing corsetry, or even close fitting fashion tops for that matter - normal body movements like taking in deep breaths or coughing expand the ribcage enough to pop buttons on blouses so would probably be enough to pull the small eyelet flange through the hole.

Another thing that would make a difference is whether or not a hole is punched through the fabric to insert the eyelet/grommet. A hole is made with an awl reduces the chance of the eyelet/grommet being pulled through. a punched hole increases the probability.

Finally the type of fabric being used will make a diffrence. The tighter the weave of the base fabric, the lower the chance of eyelet/grommet loss. Corset coutil has a very high thread count and is VERY tightly woven, just one more reason why it's the best fabric for the job!
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:icondepresedescapist:
depresedescapist Featured By Owner Feb 22, 2008  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Ah thank you for your input. You see, I have done over three hundred hours of research on corsetmaking, and have found that the majority of corsetieres have said to only use grommets, so when a poster asked about how her eyelets kept ripping out, I told her that she must use grommets as eyelets are not strong enough. In reply, a slew of posters (with thinly veiled hostility) said that they use eyelets and have had no problems, seemingly calling me some sort of immature child speaking with authority on a subject of which I know nothing, when I was really trying to help the poster based on a lot of research I had done. I'm honestly not sure what is happening to the community--it practically turned into a witch hunt, which I thought was incredibly silly. I still believe that grommets are best suited for corsetry and will last longer and are stronger than eyelets, as the majority of corsetmakers believe.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Feb 23, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Unfortunately there are some people who only listen to their own limited experience and don't hear what other people are saying. There's also the language problem as we've seen in our exchange - even though we think we speak the same language in reality UK English is very different from US English. There are a lot of people who are unaware or ignorant of the differences, some of which are very subtle, and that can be the cause of some of the issues.
Oh well, I hope it's all sorted now.
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:icontaeliac:
taeliac Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Holy crap, I love it!!~
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Just wait til I get the paniers and petticoat done and I can take some good pics ;)
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:icontanyasimonesimpson:
TanyaSimoneSimpson Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
thats beautiful! the fabric is so luxurious looking.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you - just a little bit different from Juggernaut eh?

It's a really heavy silk fabric I found about three years ago - I couldn't resist it but had no idea what I was going to use it for ;)
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:iconcelenai:
Celenai Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
Absolutely stunning. Beautiful brocade, but even more striking now that it's been put to such fantastic use. I bought my own sewing machine recently [excitement!], and bit by bit I'm trying to reaquaint myself with the wonderful world of dressmaking.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :hug:

I hope you enjoy getting re-acquainted with sewing ;D
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:iconcelenai:
Celenai Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
It's depressing how much I've forgotten/can't do anymore. My hand-sewing looks childishly sad, and I'm still grappling with the thread and pedal tension of the new machine. :(
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Don't worry it will come - get some scraps and play - write down the tension settings on the scraps so you can go back to the best ones!
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:iconellygator:
Ellygator Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Hobbyist General Artist
Looks great already!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :hug: - I just wish I had the stuff here I need to make the paniers and petticoat. It is a good exercise for me - waiting that is - I'm such an impatient person...
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:iconjoharasaluki:
joharasaluki Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008
Are the plaid shirt and jeans part of this???....LOL...just kidding!!
Gorgeous work m'dear. Is this intended for a particular venue, or just something you dreamt up and had to make?
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Absolutely - 100% authentic to the period! Now were you paying attention when I told you to ignore the background? (Said in my best school ma'am voice.)

I'm running a stall in March and need to do some sample pieces for the 18th and 19th centuries. So I need the display pieces to be of exceptional quality to draw attention. I hope this has enough of a WOW factor to draw the crowds. I've been hanging onto this piece of silk for over three years waiting for the perfect gown to make - when I found I had to do these periods for the stall I knew I had to use this silk...
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:iconjoharasaluki:
joharasaluki Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
Hehehe....cheeky little bugger, ain't I?
This design has plenty of WOW. The place where this will be displayed; is it a local fair or more along the line of a fashion expo?
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
It's what I've come to expect...

As for the show - it's a multi period re-enactors market that attracts museums, schools, theatre and film people as well as re-enactors. It covers from pre-Roman to WWII - the reason I'm doing this period rather than my normal medieval is that the costume from this period is under-represented at the market. There are already several medieval costumiers. I've wanted to make some stuff from the 18th C for a while now and this has given me the reason.
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:iconjoharasaluki:
joharasaluki Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
Guaranteed you'll be a hit....all the best with it.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thanks - I'm feeling quite nervous - it'll be my first time at the market and this is my first 18th C piece!
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:iconjoharasaluki:
joharasaluki Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2008
They'll love you......knock 'em out!!!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 17, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you, I hope to...
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:iconkv-arts:
KV-Arts Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008  Professional Traditional Artist
so far so beautiful! :)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :D
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:iconkv-arts:
KV-Arts Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Traditional Artist
:hug: you're welcome :)
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:iconecathe:
Ecathe Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008  Professional Digital Artist
wonderfull hun! How much hour you have make for this masterpiece?
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :hug:

So far there are 25 hours in this piece - there is only one or two hours work left on the gown but then I have to make a petticoat (underskirt) that shows through the gap at the front and the right sort of supporting underwear.
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:iconecathe:
Ecathe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Digital Artist
welcome hun!
:hug:

OMG its a very hard work to do it, 25 h are so much! I think was very difficult to make it, but at list you had make a masterpiece
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
It's now 26 hours, I only need to hem the dress and it's done so probably another hour...

I do still need to make the paniers and the petticoat though...

:hug:
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:iconecathe:
Ecathe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Digital Artist
OMG again much work, but a dress like this how does it cost?
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Well, this is a pure heavy weight silk, the bodice and sleeves are lined with linen and there is a lot of hand sewing.

I hope to sell this gown for around £400 - that's approximately €600 or $800
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:iconecathe:
Ecathe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Digital Artist
I believe that coast much more than 600 euro, its not much!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :hug:
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(1 Reply)
:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008  Student Artisan Crafter
Erm.. wowzers Jane. quick work and looking good!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :D - 25 hours work to this stage - it still needs hemming and the back bodice pleats need sewing in place - I wasn't sure if just pressing would be enough like the sack dresses - it isn't.
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Student Artisan Crafter
Oh. Yes, you certainly want to stitch those guys down!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thanks - I was sort of wondering if I wouldn't need to but after pressing and putting the dress on my dunny I knew I couldn't get away with it.

There's so much hand work in this dress I reckon if I'd done it all by hand it would have taken me much longer - maybe another three or four hours!

I am ok to do a petticoat with only the silk at the front aren't I? I've only got enough silk to do a faux front - and should the petticoat be linen or cotton?
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Student Artisan Crafter
The faux front isn't period but shouldn't be a problem for a sample. Since it won't show you might as well make the rest of it out of whatever is cheapest. In general I make my petticoat of linen or wool because the politics behind cotton was so complicated and because I do not think that modern weave equate very well to the 18th century ones.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Well I think I will use linen - from the little I've read about cotton I suspect it was being worn openly on show rather than being hidden away in undergarments. I have enough length and about 45" width so it won't show but at the same time I want it to be as close to the period as possible. I thought I'd seen some petticoats with different fronts - maybe they weren't 18th C?

Next time I go to England IU will have a really good look at the V&A textiles collection, if photographs are permissible I'll send you copies of everything I take...
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Student Artisan Crafter
OoO.. that'll be fun. I was originally hoping to get to england this winter but the exchange rate is making a usually expensive trip unafordable. I think that the Elizabethan skirts had something called a forpart. which was a section with only the dressy fabric showing..
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
It's a shame the £ is so strong against the $ - for you guys anyway - for Brits it's fantastic if we want to visit or buy - but for selling to the US it's making it hard. :(

The Elizabethans certainly did forparts - For some reason I thought it was not uncommon practise in the 18th C. I figured that might be one of the reseons dresses were hitched up to show the pwtticoat all around - to show off your wealth... Oh well. I can't decide now. Perhaps I should go for a plain white silk or yellow silk petticoat... Only problem is that would mean buying fabric and at the moment we have no money for anythng that isn't essential :(
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:iconamalym:
amalym Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008
It looks lovely!! I can't wait to see it when you are finished:D
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thank you :D
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:iconamalym:
amalym Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008
You're welcome :D
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:iconshaniah:
Shaniah Featured By Owner Jan 14, 2008  Hobbyist General Artist
Wow! you work so quickly!!!! I'm happy you chose a white fabric for the inside of the sleeve :) (I'm actually working on a lot of stuffs, not historical, and I need to draw the models and post it on DA)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jan 15, 2008  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thanks - when I get my teeth into a project I work non-stop. 25 hours on this so far - so only three days - but long hours. I have to wait now for components to arrive before I can go any further :(

The white fabric is some lovely crisp yet soft silk - perfect for the job I thought.
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Submitted on
January 14, 2008
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EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
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Jan 14, 2008, 4:21:30 PM
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