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Late 1790s stays by Janes-Wardrobe Late 1790s stays by Janes-Wardrobe
Two layers of linen canvas, cane boning, 41 hand worked eyelets, machine sewn but entirely finished by hand. The pattern is cut by me from Norah Waugh's 'Corsets and Crinolines'.

My mannequin is rigid, so the stays are slightly open. It's very low cut, probably doesn't even come to the nipples but it will allow for the extremely low cut fashions of the very late 18th century. I could probably have laced it tighter but as it's a commissioned piece I wanted it to be in perfect condition when it arrives.

When I get my PC back I will edit the photo's and post alternate views.
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:iconcharlottevale:
CharlotteVale Featured By Owner Apr 14, 2011
Ah! I can't wait to get started on my 1790's stays! they look so comfortable!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Apr 15, 2011
I have no idea - I've never actually worn this style myself - nothing to wear it with - time to make an 18th C costume formyself I think! :D
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:iconcharlottevale:
CharlotteVale Featured By Owner Apr 24, 2011
always a good plan! they look lovely! well done.
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:iconcridarlalba:
CridarlAlba Featured By Owner Sep 17, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
C'est une pièce magnifique, Jane!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Sep 19, 2010
Merci Sandrine :hug:
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:icontaeliac:
taeliac Featured By Owner Aug 18, 2010  Professional Artisan Crafter
I'm so envious of you - your binding looks so beautiful aroudn the edges! I just finished a different (I think?) corset from the same book (p 40, the half-boned stay) for myself, and I swear, all the hand marking/tacking/more hand tacking/boning channels etc etc took half the time that the darned binding around the bottom took :O

You are my hero for it looking so good, and not driving you batty (any tips? :faint: I think I've been obligated to make one for my mother, now, because she's really loving how my polonaise is coming along >__<)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 18, 2010
Thank you. (Good to see you back! :heart:) You're right it's a different corset to the one you just made, my protege has just finished making the same one as you [link]

I find marking and making the boning channels takes hardly any time at all compared with binding the tabs! and I thoroughly enjoyed making these stayes - even with 41 hand worked eyelets ;)

The best tips I can give is mark but don't cut the tabs until you are ready to bind them. Sew in all your boning channels then before inserting the boning see which bones you have to insert from the bottom. If you are going to hand work eyelets do it now. Then cut and shape the tabs and sew the bottom binding after inserting only the bones you can't insert from the top. Make the binding narrow - as narrow as you dare and do the hand finishing of the binding. I find it's much easier to sew the binding if there are fewer bones in the stays. There really is no better solution to neat binding than hand finishing.

Once you've got finished the bottom binding insert the rest of the bones and bind the top. Here's were it gets tricky - if there is any horizontal boning or bones that work diagonally across other bones make and sew tapes to the inside of the corset by hand - this is possibly even harder than the bottom tabs.

I've not had chance to look at any original stays to see how they worked the horizontal bones - it's possible that they have used three layers of fabric not just two but this method is working for me.
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:iconjessica-in-iowa:
Jessica-in-Iowa Featured By Owner Aug 12, 2010  Professional Photographer
Me likes! I really like the 'flaps' (I'm sure they have a real name,I'm just lazy.) come down in desending order.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 13, 2010
Thank you, and yes, the 'flaps' are called tabs - so not very different ;)
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:iconjessica-in-iowa:
Jessica-in-Iowa Featured By Owner Aug 15, 2010  Professional Photographer
Rad, I'll keep that in mind. :D
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:iconjeriquan:
jeriquan Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010
That is fabulous. That's an obscure period, too. I've done a bit of looking into it for some Caribbean events with my reenacting unit. There's some really gorgeous things out there.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010
Thank you, it all came about because I wanted the right underwear for a dress I wanted to do from Sleepy Hollow. That was set (loosely) in 1799 and these were the only pair of stays I managed to find that fit the bill.
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:iconweinglasarien:
Weinglasarien Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
They're gorgeous and look comfortable (as far as stays can be).
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010
Thank you, I plan on making some in my size - I'll let you know ;)
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:icongoldenspring:
Goldenspring Featured By Owner Aug 4, 2010  Student Artisan Crafter
I like it! this is a fun shape/period
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 4, 2010
Thanks :glomp:
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:iconelandria:
Elandria Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010  Professional General Artist
Beautiful set, but surely that low cut would have caused real discomfort?? Sometimes I find it incredibly difficult to fathom why women put themselves through this on a daily basis!!
Never the less, they are exquisitely crafted!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 4, 2010
Thanks. I'm not sure if it will be uncomfortable or not. My daughter wore one cut from the same pattern for two days solid and didn't mention anything about lack of comfort and another friend didn't find the stays uncomfortable either. I think the actual depth of the neckline is higher than it looks on my mannequin - her assets are artificially high. It would have been worn with a shift underneath which would also help control the breasts and I suspect it's the only way to get that late 18th C shape. From making corsets from original patterns I find that the oddest things work much better than you'd expect and are often more comfortable when cut to period proportions than when modified to allow for more comfort. ;)
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:iconmissenthropy:
MissEnthropy Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010
I agree, though you can remember I was really doubtful at the beginning of the process, these stays are far from being uncomfortable. Indeed the shift is really helping, and once you get all the layers on, it just feels normal. Every thing is in place and well supported! :D
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 5, 2010
There you go Lanny, first hand evidence from the girl the original stays were made for!
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:iconmissenthropy:
MissEnthropy Featured By Owner Aug 6, 2010
:D:D
I forgot to say that they look really good (even if I've already told you in person).
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 6, 2010
:D:D:D :glomp:
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:iconmegna:
megna Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010  Hobbyist Photographer
I love this corset and your mannequin!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 4, 2010
Thank you, the mannequin is probably an antique, I've had her over 20 years and just don't have the heart to recover her, even though she's showing signs of wear. I am considering making a jersey cover to stop her getting any worse but removing it for display etc. There's something about having a well loved piece in it's original condition.
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:iconisiswardrobe:
Isiswardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010
Absolutely gorgeous!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010
Thank you, You were quick off the mark ;)
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:iconisiswardrobe:
Isiswardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010
Call me Flash. ;)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Aug 3, 2010
Hello Flash ;) :hug:
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Submitted on
August 3, 2010
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Make
EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
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KODAK DX3600 DIGITAL CAMERA
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1/128 second
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Focal Length
11 mm
Date Taken
Jan 15, 2001, 10:05:38 AM
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