Jalea's Stays

Mid 18th century stays. (AKA corset - though the word corset was not applied to boned, body shaping underwear until the 19th century)

Brown linen was often used in the 18th century for making stays, which were then often lined with natural linen. These stays have an additional layer of calico between the two layers of linen. When I started to cut the brown linen I decided it was too thin to use on its own. The stays are fastened with a single lace at the back, which is drawn up and tightened to shape the body. In the 18th century whalebone, bents and reeds were used to stiffen stays. I have used cane, a natural product that breathes and molds to the body the way reeds do.

In the 18th century the desired shape was conical.The breasts were pushed up and flattend and the waist slightly narrowed and elongated to acheive this look.

There are 115 boning channels and it took me two hours just to cut, trim and insert the cane into these channels. The stays are bound with the same natural linen used in the lining, apart from the hand finishing on the binding these stays are entirely machine sewn.

There should be a gap of about 2" in the lacing of these stays, my measurements are just about 2" smaller than Jalea's so when she wears these they will have that gap which will allow for tighter lacing if she wants it.