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1680 gentleman's dress by Janes-Wardrobe 1680 gentleman's dress by Janes-Wardrobe
Full ensemble dating to 1680.

I made the breeches, waistcoat and justaucorps - the shoes, stocking, cane wig and hat are models own!

I didn't draft the pattern my commissioner (and model) supplied the pattern and made the final design detail decisions.

The breeches are wool worsted, lined with natural linen. You can see the detail but the buttons on the breeches were all hand made by me and the buttonholes were all hand sewn - this led to the buttonholes on the other two garments being machine made!

The waistcoat - hah - not what I'd call a waistcoat - is knee length, and has full length sleeves. there are in total 57 self cover buttons on the waistcoat, I don't remember the exact numbers but 7/8 on each of the side and back vents, five on each pocket and the rest down the front. The waistcoat is the same woollen worsetd cloth as the breeches. It is fully interlined with linen and then linen with natural linen.

The justaucorps (French for close to the body and these days you'll be offered a leotard if you ask for a justaucorps) is cut to the same pattern as the waistcoat but with a sleeve variation. (I made up the waistcoat slightly smaller and the justaucorps slightly bigger so that they would wear well together.) This garment has a similar number of buttons (58), this time all entirely hand made by Gina of Gina B Silkwork [link]
The justaucorps is made from a well finished woollen fabric which lends itself to a raw edge technique. It is lined with natural linen.

The buttonholes - now there's a story - my old sewing machine died at Christmas and I borrowed a machine to make five buttonholes on a coat. I realised I NEEDED a new machine if I wanted professional buttonholes. Managed fine with my industrial machine until it came to this project, where I tried to resurrect my grandmothers old singer. I couldn't get consistently good buttonholes so I went shopping... I'm now the owner of a Brother anniversary machine which does three types of buttonhole. The standard shirt buttonhole with a bar at each end, a buttonhole with a round end and a bar at the other and a keyhole buttonhole. I am so happy with this machine. There was no way I could do 115 buttonholes by hand in the time I had and there was no way my client could afford that expense.

I've finally got around to uploading a bigger picture it's enormous!
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:iconvendelrus:
VendelRus Featured By Owner Apr 17, 2011
Very nice! And my second to favourite period to =)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Apr 19, 2011
Thank you - I have a commission for a gown to make for the same period - need to do a bit of research first :D
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:iconcridarlalba:
CridarlAlba Featured By Owner Dec 8, 2009  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Amaaaaaaaaaazing!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Dec 9, 2009
Thaaaaaank you ;) :hug:
Reply
:iconcridarlalba:
CridarlAlba Featured By Owner Dec 10, 2009  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
You deserve it!
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:iconotacon144:
Otacon144 Featured By Owner Nov 8, 2009  Student Filmographer
And a blessed good morrow to thee as well, my lady!

How fares thy business? I trust thou hast kept thyself busy? :)

...I take any opportunity I can to talk like an old-fashioned Quaker. It's fun. :3
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Why thank ye good sir, business fares well indeed and I am very busy. ;)
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:iconalalne:
AlAlNe Featured By Owner Nov 7, 2009
Fun with Buttons!!! So impressive- great job!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Thanks you :D
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:iconlaerad:
Laerad Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
awesome work ! The number of buttons is crazy indeed ! Even by machine, it must have been quite tedious... (I was thinking my 15th century hood had lots of buttons (9 in total), but it is nothing. In fact, I should add more buttons to that, 9 was the strict minimum, I figured I could wear it like that and add buttons in between later on...)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
and this was only half te number of buttons that some of the higher status garments had!
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:iconmiss-spook:
miss-spook Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
It looks wonderful- you did a fantastic job with detail. :)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Thank you :hug:
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:iconprinceznahyacinta:
PrinceznaHyacinta Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
Wonderful! The fabrics looks like they would be a dream to work with.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
They were :D
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
ah! This is a splendid picture :D now one can actually see the welt buttonholes... which is alot of work indeeeed!

I was reading the previous comments I made on this and now I am taking that couture class. It's wonderful working with silk. so far I've worked with dupioni and charmuse, I plan on working with chiffon, velvet and even some organza (for interfacing in the final project). All in silk :D lovely stuff! when you can get good quality and not just china silk.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
Thank you, though the buttonholes are just sewn.

I'm really lucky I've had lots of beautiful silks to work with, I've just made a shirt with some shantung silk and I've got another to make with some beautiful regal dupion - like dupion but finer and fewer slubs. I made a tailored silk chiffon shirt in the summer and that was an absolute pig - I may get around to uploading photo's at some point...
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
oh really? they don't look it :shrug:
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Really - and they say the camera doesn't lie ;-)
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:iconspinstermaiden:
spinstermaiden Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009
Wow. Buttons.

Lovely work. I hope he enjoys it as much as we do.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
I think he does :D
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:iconeqos:
eqos Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009   Artisan Crafter
Beautiful work! I can't imagine making something so perfect.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
Thank you :hug:
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:iconjoharasaluki:
joharasaluki Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
0.0 ....*yearns*
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
:heart:
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
but ohhh all the buttons, down the front, and the side and back vents! Fantastic :D and all the wool and linen... mmmm comfy too
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
Thank you, fashion eh - this outfit has half the number of buttons that were usually ordered for the kings suits ;) Really nice fabrics, I so enjoy working with natural fibres.
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
oh really o.0 .... well, I'm not supprised. They did go all out. Natural fibers are the best, hands down. Especially for custom/couture work because of their flexibility and moldibility... especially wool
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
yeah, wool is fantastic you can shrink it in places with a steam iron to get a really well shaped seam and I love the way you can shrink the turnings on flared hems - something that's impossible with other fibres. There are a couple of natural fibre fabrics I'm not keen on working with - crinkle chiffon is so awkward. it puuls and twists and just doesn't seem to lie where you want it to! Otherwise I love working with silk :D
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
yeah, then there's all those fabrics. Sometime in the future I'm going to be taking a couture class where I'll be learning how to work with those fabrics.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 9, 2009
gah, I wish I could afford to take a class - I've spent the entirity of my dressmaking career learning through experience. That can be expensive too ;)
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 9, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
yes, true. But not nearly as expensive as $90,000+ for a proper education these days
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 9, 2009
Yep, $90,000 is very expensive, I'd still love to have some training but I'd be ever so frustrated in the classes where I wasn't learning anything new!
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(1 Reply)
:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
this picture is unsatisfyingly small...
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
I know, it's in the format for my webpages, which is where I was supposed to be putting it but I wanted to post it here as well. I'll get the bigger version and replace the image ;)
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:iconmarcusstratus:
Marcusstratus Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
ah, I see. :)
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:iconobitus-strand:
Obitus-Strand Featured By Owner Jun 7, 2009
I love it! :D

The colors are fantastic.
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
Thank you :D
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 7, 2009
There are only 131 in total on the entire ensemble =P

Thanks :D
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:iconellygator:
Ellygator Featured By Owner Jun 7, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
Wow! Love the detail of the 1000 buttons!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Jun 8, 2009
oh, replied in the wrong place!D

There are only 131 in total on the entire ensemble =P

And thanks :D :hug:
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