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June 7, 2009
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1680 gentleman's dress by Janes-Wardrobe 1680 gentleman's dress by Janes-Wardrobe
Full ensemble dating to 1680.

I made the breeches, waistcoat and justaucorps - the shoes, stocking, cane wig and hat are models own!

I didn't draft the pattern my commissioner (and model) supplied the pattern and made the final design detail decisions.

The breeches are wool worsted, lined with natural linen. You can see the detail but the buttons on the breeches were all hand made by me and the buttonholes were all hand sewn - this led to the buttonholes on the other two garments being machine made!

The waistcoat - hah - not what I'd call a waistcoat - is knee length, and has full length sleeves. there are in total 57 self cover buttons on the waistcoat, I don't remember the exact numbers but 7/8 on each of the side and back vents, five on each pocket and the rest down the front. The waistcoat is the same woollen worsetd cloth as the breeches. It is fully interlined with linen and then linen with natural linen.

The justaucorps (French for close to the body and these days you'll be offered a leotard if you ask for a justaucorps) is cut to the same pattern as the waistcoat but with a sleeve variation. (I made up the waistcoat slightly smaller and the justaucorps slightly bigger so that they would wear well together.) This garment has a similar number of buttons (58), this time all entirely hand made by Gina of Gina B Silkwork [link]
The justaucorps is made from a well finished woollen fabric which lends itself to a raw edge technique. It is lined with natural linen.

The buttonholes - now there's a story - my old sewing machine died at Christmas and I borrowed a machine to make five buttonholes on a coat. I realised I NEEDED a new machine if I wanted professional buttonholes. Managed fine with my industrial machine until it came to this project, where I tried to resurrect my grandmothers old singer. I couldn't get consistently good buttonholes so I went shopping... I'm now the owner of a Brother anniversary machine which does three types of buttonhole. The standard shirt buttonhole with a bar at each end, a buttonhole with a round end and a bar at the other and a keyhole buttonhole. I am so happy with this machine. There was no way I could do 115 buttonholes by hand in the time I had and there was no way my client could afford that expense.

I've finally got around to uploading a bigger picture it's enormous!
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:iconvendelrus:
VendelRus Featured By Owner Apr 17, 2011
Very nice! And my second to favourite period to =)
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Apr 19, 2011
Thank you - I have a commission for a gown to make for the same period - need to do a bit of research first :D
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:iconcridarlalba:
CridarlAlba Featured By Owner Dec 8, 2009  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Amaaaaaaaaaazing!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Dec 9, 2009
Thaaaaaank you ;) :hug:
Reply
:iconcridarlalba:
CridarlAlba Featured By Owner Dec 10, 2009  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
You deserve it!
Reply
:iconotacon144:
Otacon144 Featured By Owner Nov 8, 2009  Student Filmographer
And a blessed good morrow to thee as well, my lady!

How fares thy business? I trust thou hast kept thyself busy? :)

...I take any opportunity I can to talk like an old-fashioned Quaker. It's fun. :3
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Why thank ye good sir, business fares well indeed and I am very busy. ;)
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:iconalalne:
AlAlNe Featured By Owner Nov 7, 2009
Fun with Buttons!!! So impressive- great job!
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:iconjanes-wardrobe:
Janes-Wardrobe Featured By Owner Nov 30, 2009
Thanks you :D
Reply
:iconlaerad:
Laerad Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
awesome work ! The number of buttons is crazy indeed ! Even by machine, it must have been quite tedious... (I was thinking my 15th century hood had lots of buttons (9 in total), but it is nothing. In fact, I should add more buttons to that, 9 was the strict minimum, I figured I could wear it like that and add buttons in between later on...)
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